Food
Valentine’s Day is the chocolate industry’s holiday season. With an eye toward this February’s annual love-fest, the International Labor Rights Forum purchased an advertising slot on a jumbotron outside the Super Bowl’s Lucas Oil Stadium in Indianapolis upon which to broadcast a video called Hershey’s Chocolate, Kissed by Child Labor.
Africa produces 70 percent of the world’s cocoa—much of it with the region’s infamously cheap labor. “In West Africa, where Hershey’s sources much of its cocoa, over 200,000 children are forced to harvest cocoa beans every year,” said Judy Gearhart, executive director of the International Labor Rights Forum (ILRF), via a press release.
On the day the Super Bowl ad was announced, Hershey’s released a statement detailing steps it would take toward improving labor and sustainability practices, including a $10 million investment in its West African suppliers. That was enough to buy the company a temporary reprieve from the ILRF.
“Hershey’s pledged to take the first step to address rampant forced and child labor in its supply chain,” said Sean Rudolph, ILRF’s campaigns director, “so we decided to pull the ad as a gesture of good faith.”
The scuffle highlights the dark side of a food that, like love, can be bitter or sweet. In addition to labor issues, chocolate plantations can be responsible for deforestation, when growers raze rainforest to plant more cocoa trees.
But chocolate production can also be empowering to farmers and relatively healthy for the environment. A few years ago, I had the opportunity to visit some cocoa producers in Brazil who demonstrate the potential of chocolate to create positive change.
Like coffee, chocolate trees can be grown beneath the forest canopy instead of replacing it. In the Atlantic Rainforest of Brazil this cultivation strategy is called cabruca. Also sometimes called “chocolate rainforests,” cabrucas are composed of shade-tolerant cacao trees grown under a forest canopy. Leaf litter is allowed to build up on the forest floor, and a diverse ecosystem of plants and insects develops. Cabrucas can include other cash crops such as rubber trees, cassava and banana, papaya and other fruit trees.
The cabrucas I visited are a far cry from the monoculture-style chocolate plantations that dominate the chocolate industry. In addition to the environmental benefits, the cabruca system offers a solution to the labor problems often associated with chocolate. The cacao plant is extremely responsive to tender loving care like pruning, mulching and amendments with compost. On a small scale, given lots of love, cocoa yields can more than double. This makes it a viable cash crop for small landholders.
While the term cabruca is used only in Brazil, the concept of rainforest-friendly chocolate has taken root to some degree wherever chocolate is grown, even in West Africa. As part of Hershey’s new commitment to fair-trade and sustainably grown chocolate, the company’s Bliss and Dagoba lines will soon be sourced exclusively from Rainforest-Alliance certified operations. The change is due in part to pressure from groups like the International Labor Rights Forum, and in part to chase profit; artisanal chocolate is one of the fastest-growing segments of the food business.
Chocolate is an industry rife with stories, and stories—like being rainforest-friendly—sell product, even if they’re plain wrong, says Jason Willenbrock of Missoula’s Posh Chocolat, who cites the fame of Belgian chocolate as an example.
“This time of year, everyone wants to make chocolate fondue. And, for some reason, many of the recipes call for Belgian chocolate,” Willenbrock says. He says when Valentine’s Day rolls around, he has to brace for the annual onslaught of fondue makers looking for Belgian chocolate.
It’s frustrating, he says, because Belgian chocolate makers tend to be “among the worst” of the Africa-sourcing chocolate makers, in terms of environmental and labor practices, and also in terms of quality. “There’s absolutely no reason to choose Belgian chocolate, for fondue or anything else,” he said.
[RECIPE]
Jason Willenbrock’s (non-Belgian) Chocolate Fondue
Ingredients
1 1/4 cup heavy cream
6 oz chopped chocolate (he prefers South American origin chocolates in the 65 percent range)
1 oz cognac or brandy
Sponge cake squares or strawberries for dipping
In a heavy bottom pot slowly bring cream to simmer. Slowly incorporate the chopped chocolate by whisking in a little at a time until it melts completely. Whisk in the cognac and keep it warm. Serve immediately with sponge cake squares or strawberries.
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